A week with Romayne Wheeler & the Rarámuri People in Chihuahua, Mexico

I had the delight and blessing to be able to venture out with a small group of people to the mountains on Chihuahua Mexico with the intentions of meeting and connecting with the esteemed pianist and composer Romayne Wheeler and the indigenous people (Rarámuri) that live in that region. Additionally, in the week of our time there, we were wanting to gather footage to create an inspirational documentary film about Romayne Wheeler’s life, how he came to live with the Rarámuri people, which led to his actualization of his life’s higher purpose- being of service and making a positive difference through the creation and sharing of his music. 
In this blog I would like to share with you a little about this beautiful and amazing story, the interesting history and culture of the Rarámuri people and what we hope this documentary film will inspire in those that watch it.
To start, my dear friend, Curt Cetraro, invited me on this trip because Romayne has deeply touched and inspired him and he wished to share the experience of this simple, yet majestic way of life out in this mountainous region with others. Because of my own musical background, he also felt that I would find inspiration and have my own creative ideas to contribute to this filming project and also the non-profit organization “Music Making a Difference,” which Curt created in order to carry on Romayne’s legacy. Below is a photo of Curt and I, in front of the cathedral in Chihuahua, the day before we headed out on a small 6 seater Cessna plane out to the mountainous region of Retosachi.
Curt has been a very supportive ally in my musical journey. I originally met him in a yoga studio at a musical sharing of my own in Sacramento, through mutual friends. On that first meeting he told me he would like to see me perform in a bigger venue and that he’d be happy to help make happen. Curt is the kind of person that follows through with his word. A year or so later, he organized a wonderful concert at the beautiful Harris Center performing arts venue in Folsom, on the Winter Solstice where myself and other visionary musicians Shim Shai and Chad Wilkins got to share our music! He also funded the creation of my gorgeous, custom made ukulele from TYDE Music- that is literally the most beautiful work of art for an Ukulele that I have ever seen! That all being said, I just wanted to make the point that Curt is the kind of person that us independent artist/musicians NEED and Appreciate SO MUCH! He KNOWS in his heart the power that Music has to truly MAKE A DIFFERENCE in the world and in the hearts of Humanity. 
Curt, as well as two others in our group Andi and David, had already been out to this place the year prior. For myself and the two film maker friends from Costa Rica, Juancho and Paula, it was our first experience out there. After our first night of getting to meet and know each other at the hotel in the city of Chihuahua, we flew out bright and early the following morning over the stunning mountains and valleys, about a 40 minute flight, to our destination- a dirt air strip atop a mesa in a region called Retosáchi. (Retosáchi in the municipality of Guachochi, Chihuahua, which is in the Sierra Madre Occidental range — also known as the Sierra Tarahumara.) About 450 families are scattered throughout the area. On this particular mesa lives Romayne and a number of other families. There is also a small hospital and school, both created and sustained through the funding of Romayne’s support. 
It was so breathtaking, approaching the mesa and seeing Romayne’s house (affectionally called “The Eagle’s Nest”) sitting on the edge of tall, sheer cliff- knowing I would be staying in that house for the next week. Upon landing we were greeted by Romayne, his helpful female companion Marichu and a pack of dogs (which he kept off the runway with the dog food “croquettes.”)
In addition to being pianist and composer, Romayne is also a painter, poet and philosopher- and he has the profound gift of utilizing whatever surrounds him for inspiration for his creations. 
A little background story about this remarkable human-  “He was born to Born in 1942, he grew up in California, graduating from high school in 1960. Already writing music at age 7, in 1952 he heard Segovia give a concert in San Juan, PR and on the spot determined to become a musician. He went to Austria in 1961, spent a year in Salzburg then studied in Vienna for a total of 12 years, earning degrees in composition and as a concert pianist. Returning to the USA, he started touring and playing, nationally and internationally, which continues today. During a weather-delayed trip in New Mexico in 1980, he came across a copy of National Geographic magazine in an Albuquerque café which featured a story on the Rarámuri. He spent 1980-1981 hiking the area and sleeping in a tent. He teemed up with a young Japanese tourist who knew no Spanish, but was an expert in origami (making designs out of paper) which endeared them to the Raramuri. Having spent time earlier with the Hopi, he describes meeting the Rarámuri as “coming home”. In Creel he met Father Verplanken SJ who painted a stark picture of the Rarámuri needs. Wheeler contributed three quarters of his earnings to the St Teresita hospital in Creel from 1985-2000.The connection between the world of nature and the world of the soul is what Romayne Wheeler finds in the life of the Rarámuri. As a composer he creates music which is in tune with the nature which is all around him in the sierras. “I have finally arrived where I yearned to be” he says. But he needs to go back regularly to the modern world to perform concert tours for income to support his local projects.” - https://www.amigos3.com/romayne-wheeler-in-the-copper-canyon/
My friend Curt learned of Romayne a handful of years ago, through a mutual friend who would often speak about him with much admiration. Curt finally was determined to meet this man and so he began corresponding with him by email and finally found a way to go out there, which then beautifully altered the course of his own life. Curt found great inspiration from Romayne’s wisdom, genius and selfless service and also was deeply moved by the Raramuri’s values and humble ways of life.  Romayne and Curt developed a special friendship and trust and he soon felt a desire to also be of service. Curt began organizing piano concerts for Romayne and sharing his music with friends. Romayne, now 80 years old, is feeling like he doesn’t have the energy to continue his usual world touring which then created the predicament: “How will I continue to support all these families’ ways of life?”  And so, Curt has created a new nonprofit organization for this purpose: “Music Making a Difference.” 
Below is a candid photo I took of Curt and Romayne from the loft where I slept in the “Eagle’s Nest.”
You see this giant Steinway Grand piano? Can you imagine how a piano like this got out to this remote area and placed in this dwelling on a cliff overlooking the canyons? I will tell you- (one of the many wonderful stories we heard from Romayne). The piano was driven into the area in the back of a large truck which was filled with potatoes. The potatoes kept the piano from moving around in the truck. When it finally arrived to this mesa, after hours and hours on long dirt roads, a bunch of the local people helped to lift this piano out and place it here, with the potatoes being divided up amongst them as payment for their efforts. After being in this house I still can’t fathom how they got this piano in there- Its almost as if this house was built around it. This house is literally built into the side of cliff. the upper loft where I slept and lower level where Romayne sleeps (next to his piano) are connected by a narrow metal staircase. The wall connecting the lower to upper part of the house is the natural rock (as you can see in the photo below) But let me back up a little….to before this house was ever built….
Also, in case anyone is interested, Romayne has written some really beautiful books about his life with the Raramuri, including many wonderful, heart touching stories- I enjoyed reading from these books while I was staying there in his house. It was really special even getting to meet many of the people he spoke about in these stories.
Romayne spends an average of six hours a day at his piano, playing, practicing and composing. On a table near his piano are stacks of compositions he has written, all organized in their folders according to Opus number. On another table are more stacks, some works in progress, with calligraphy pens nearby which he uses to create his compositions. In his little office area are many books and music compositions by other composers like Chopin, Gershwin, Schubert, Liszt and Bach. In a large treasure chest type of container were stacks and stacks of more of his original handwritten compositions! I didn’t mind at all listening to him “practice.” Sometimes he would play certain “phrases” of a song over and over as exercises. For his concerts he often plays a mixture of his own original compositions, as well as favorite classics that people love hearing, such as Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue” and Schubert’s  “Ave Maria.” One evening I requested he play Ave Maria and I accompanied him with singing. 
When Romayne first came to this area 40 years ago, he knew he found his home. Beginning in 1991, he lived his first few years there in a cave below and not far from where his house is currently. He would tour for a couple of months out of the year in many countries, doing concerts, and then he would return to his cave abode where he slept on the ground on woven mats. He and his friend Juanito would cook basic food in that cave with a fire and he would play piano and compose music with his solar powered keyboard. Before Romayne’s arrival, the indigenous people out there had never heard the sound of a piano. The way they described is was “the sound of the rain.” Below is a photo of Juanito, showing us the cave where he stayed with Romayne. After a few years of this Juanito suggested building a house up above, on top of the mesa. Thus, the “stone house” was built, which took more than a month to build. 

Also, nearby the cave that Romayne lived in there are some other caves that have very old drawings in a red pigment that even the Rarámuri do not know who made them. What we were told is that they come from “a time when there was giants.” (see photos above)
I’d like to share more about what I learned about the Rarámuri ways of life. I would like to make the distintion: “Tarahumara” is the name given to these people by the Spanish, and is still commonly used when referring to these people, however I am intentionally using the name by which they refer to themselves: Rarámuri- which can be translated to mean “runners on foot.” Indeed these people are known widely for their amazing ability and endurance in long distance running- as it is part of their life! Villages can sometimes be many miles apart from each other. They have adapted to walking and running long distances in their traditional sandals (huaraches). In fact racing is a part of their traditional custom that has competitive and ceremonial aspects that serve the community. We got to witness one of these races on the day that there was a fiesta. Six men participated in the race. We watched in amazement as they ran back and forth along the mesa, kicking their carved wooden balls along with them. (see below)
Above is Juanito showing us some of the balls that he carved for us in a beautiful woven basket made by his partner. Juanito, like quite a few other Rarámuri people, has travelled to other countries to run in races. Its kind of funny to see many of the men wearing various racing shirts. We actually met a rather famous Rarámuri marathon runner who came for the fiesta, named Arnulfo Quimare. He was featured in the well known book “Born to Run.” (photo below)
The Rarámuri are a fiercely resilient people. Originally they lived throughout the state of Chihuahua, however in the 16th century, they retreated into the mountains to resist Spanish conquest and Christian conversion.  Through all the struggles and resistance they still maintain their language, which belongs to the Uto-Aztecan family. They grow their crops of maize (corn), beans, squash, greens and tobacco. They also raise cattle, goats and sheep. Where we were we most commonly saw goats. They do not consume too much meat, only for special ceremonial occasions. From Spanish influence many other fruit bearing trees have been introduced into the area for food, such as apples, peaches, apricots, figs and oranges. They weave beautiful baskets from a leaf from a plant that grows plentifully in the area and they use these baskets for gathering and for keeping their corn and tortillas in. While we were there, many women were busy weaving baskets to sell to us. One basket took them a day to make. I definitely brought quite a few baskets back with me! Below is Juanito’s partner, Raijina.
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For the Rarámuri, their survival is their first and foremost concern- and that is dependent on food and water. Their success of their crops is of utmost importance and the Rarámuri. On our walk with Porfirio, we walked through many beautiful corn fields, plentiful with other blooming flowers, and lots of bees buzzing.  For a long time these people did not have easy access to water. Although there are streams that run in various places, they are not easily accessible by many. Water tanks have been constructed in various locations with solar water pumps which work to pump water to houses. They also gather rain water from the roofs (now that the roofs are made out of corrugated metal). Electricity is also not commonly accessed out in this region. In the winter it gets freezing out there, snow and all! Porfirio expressed that more warm clothing is definitely needed. Below are some photos of some of the basic living situations. The homes are typically made out of mud brick. Food is cooked in pots over a fire either inside or outside the home. Each home usually has a garden containing some supplemental vegetables such as peppers, squash or other greens/herbs. I also saw quite a few fruit trees planted around the houses. Porfirio expressed the importance of attaining seeds for growing plants. When I shared with him some golden berries on a hike he wondered if he could try to grow them from the seeds inside.
Their cultural values are based on the “four directions,” which is symbolized as a cross. This can often times be misinterpreted as a Christian cross, in fact during their ceremonies they utilize wooden crosses which look very much like the Christian crosses but they are not. The Four directions is also akin to the Tree of Life. The South (the Roots) is the value “Korima” - sharing and reciprocity. This value is foundational to the resilience of the community- food and resources are always shared. Hoarding is very frowned upon, and stealing even worse- and this is rare amongst the Rarámuri. Although things are shifting due to outside influences, generally the Rarámuri do not attribute value to “things”- value is based on what is useful to their actual survival. The West is Humility. The Rarámuri are very humble and very soft spoken and quiet people, and can be perceived as shy- there is no boasting or gossiping. The incessant chatter of Westerners can often be overwhelming to them. An example of their gentle nature is the way the greet each other: by touching the tops of the fingers lightly. To grab their hands and shake them would be aggressive for them. The North is maintaining Connection to Creator (through the fontanel on the head)- this is where we receive guidance and inspiration. And finally the East is the value of creating Happiness through Music. For the Rarámuri, music is regarded as a bridge to eternity.
 Now I’d like to share more about the role music plays in their life. The two most commonly played instruments are the violin and the guitar. Obviously these instruments were adopted from other cultures however they have integrated them into their ceremonies and fiestas. The songs that are played have a revolving melodic theme, that almost sound like Irish jigs- so interesting! And their dance, known as the matachin may also have origins with the Spanish, however they have made it their own. As I listened and observed, I could see and feel how they would become completely absorbed and present in the music and dance.
Flute and drum are also a part of their musical ways, however these instruments are ONLY played in the months of February-April (to call in the new life of the Spring season) and are forbidden to be played any other time because it is believed that it will disrupt the natural cycles. I was ignorant of this and I had brought my native American flute with me. One day I thought I would play the flute out on the cliff. There was some inkling in me that felt uneasy about doing so and so I did not continue to play t for very long. I later had showed Romayne my flute and he nonchalantly told me, “that’s very nice but flute is not to be played this time of year, Years ago I almost got thrown off the cliff from playing a flute when I shouldn’t have….” I don’t know how much he was exaggerating but I took it very seriously. By the way, Romayne is an epic storyteller- speaking with eloquence melodic inflections of his voice. 
 During the opening ceremony on the day before the fiesta, we watched as the elder of the community, Candelaria, brought out three crosses to a clearing, arranged them, with cloth laid over them. These crosses are symbols of their “Four directions”- the fundamental life values of the Rarámuri.  Candelaria is the daughter of Luciano, who was a beloved medicine man and musician of that community, also a  mentor/”godfather” figure to Romayne.)  
We watched from afar in quiet respect as the area was then sanctified with incense (pine resin in a clay incense holder) and then sprinkles of Suwiki, which is their well-loved fermented corn beverage. There were invocations/prayers spoken to the four directions.  Two goats were brought down to the altar space and tied up. A few other women came out and were cleansed with smoke. We watched in awe as these goats were blessed and then killed and strung up on a tree nearby to be cut up in parts which would then be cooked into a stew for the following day.  While the goats’ souls were being liberated from their bodies  there were songs being sung by Juanito (see video below)
The following day, there was a race in the morning and right after that was a fiesta. The families of that particular area came to attend, which really weren’t all that many people. The fiesta began there in the same clearing area near the altar with song and dance. First, it was the women who danced while Juanito sang and shook the rattle. Marichu, Andi and I also got pulled in by the women to dance. And then the music shifted to violin and guitar songs and Juanito and others danced. Juanito put on special ankle rattles that had butterfly cocoons on them. The Suwiki by that time was being served to all. After a while the festivities moved closer to the house where we had watched the women days earlier grinding the corn for their Suwiki.  I also had the honor of getting to accompany the musicians with my ukulele- I think it was the first time they had seen an ukulele! See videos and photos below!
At the fire, a young woman (I think Candelaria’s grand daughter) was cooking up tortillas by the fire where there was also the big clay pot of the goat and corn stew. We all were given some to eat. During this trip I most certainly ate bean and corn every day there- the tortillas were really delicious and hearty. Honestly I could gratefully eat beans and tortillas everyday. 
And the Suwiki kept on coming around in plentitude. The musicians and dancers were definitely becoming quite inebriated. I was told by Romayne that often times it is during the fiestas that a man and woman might come together and “go disappear somewhere, maybe in a cave” and after that they would be a couple. Because of their very shy nature, Romayne shared, the Suwiki assists in openness in sharing their affection. Marriage as we know it doesn’t really exist there- people just come together there, and start having babies and just take care of one another.  
When Children get old enough to steadily walk and talk the parents leave them with the goats to begin their learning of how to be with and herd the animals. It is in the home and family unit where the real education happens. As I mentioned before, there is a schoolhouse on the mesa for the children, funded by Romayne, so they can learn to read and write learn mathematics. We visited there one day. There were only a handful of students, all quite young. These young children actually would sleep there with one of the adults, at the school in a room with provided beds for the few days of their school week, because their homes were so far away to walk. The older children had already moved on to the other school on the next mesa over. I was glad to see on the wall of the room the numbers, written in their Rarámuri language. 
As I mentioned before there is also a hospital in the mesa. About twice a month a doctor comes from the neighboring city (which takes bout 4 hours of driving on remote dirt roads) to do check-ups for people in the region. Below is a photo of the hospital.
Now I would like to express some of the more complex issues that arose in our group during this week. While we had the privilege to be out in this remote area of Mexico and connect with the Rarámuri and also learn about their ways of life, many feelings surfaced around Colonization, climate change, the impact of Western materialist/consumerist influences, and how we as privileged “white people” could be of best support to Indigenous people, such as the Rarámuri. Since we were there to connect with, learn from and to also create a documentary film about Romayne and the Rarámuri people we wanted to feel like our impact would be a positive one. 
Even while immersed in the peace and majesty of this remote mountainous region, we saw the evidence of corruption of their natural harmonious ways of living- due to the influx of commercial commodities, products wrapped in plastic, alcohol, sugar, etc.  It was a disappointment to see the garbage strewn all over the environment in these beautiful places- but the truth is- its all the garbage from modern Society that is brought in to these rural indigenous communities and there has yet to be established a common understanding of how this garbage is ultimately harmful to the earth and the beings living here. Before the arrival of modern day life (and the plastic garbage that comes long with it) all the materials were natural and biodegradable. Their  “food wrappers” were made of corn husk (and for the most part they still are!).
On our very first day when we foreigners gathered with Romayne in his “eagle’s Next,” next to his piano to discuss a “game plan” of how to proceed with the filming of this documentary and what REALLY was the intention behind it and what did we wish to accomplish with it. We included a few other respected people of the village to include their valuable input, of what they felt was important for us to try to convey through the documentary film. 
These are some insight gems from this experience and throughout our week:
1. Modern, Western materialist society has become disconnected to Nature and are suffering greatly because of it. Indigenous People, such as the Raramuri’s ways of life are of major VALUE to our modern materialist society because they can teach us the importance of staying connected to Nature and to the fundamental Values that make Life worth living (i.e. the “four directions”).
2. The responsibility that we have as “privileged white people” is to heal this disconnection through connective and restorative action and to also BE OF SERVICE to and Sacred RECIPROCITY with the indigenous people’s, whose lives and lands we have benefitted from. This “service” and “reciprocity” is not necessarily going to look how WE think it should- We need to examine our ingrained colonizing mentalities to realize that we do not always KNOW what is best for others.
3. A life of SERVICE through the ACTUALIZING of one’s natural Gifts is a source of deep fulfillment and brings inspiration for others who bear witness of it. In this case- Romayne found his deep fulfillment in Life through the giving back to the people and ways of life that so deeply touched his life- through the gifts and talents of his musical genius. Romayne’s unique story is an inspiration for people who also have the desire to “make a difference” in this world. 
4. In this ever spreading globalization and all the positive and negative impacts that come with it, there are precious living treasures of wisdom that continue to persevere-whether it be deep in the Amazon rainforest or high is the Sierra Tarahumara- and these people and ways of life have much to teach us about what it truly means to be human and how the quality of our lives depend on the quality of Life itself.  We are all truly connected.